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EXTRAS

Winter biking

"Ask the Mechanic" Winter Weather and the Amazing Bicycle
By Erik Amodt, Past Owner of Mobile Mechanics
    Admit it, it hurts to ride a bike in the winter!  Getting dressed seems to take twice as much time; feet and hands freeze; cold air burns the throat and lungs, and high effort only produces a pathetic, sloth-like pace.  
   I remember my eyes freezing shut frequently during cold winter commuting, and spending far too much time running warm water over feet that were no longer operational. All of these aspects of winter riding make me less comfortable, but rewards are still available.  The idea of riding my bicycle in horrific weather excites me because the glory factor is high--I enjoy when people think I’m “crazy to ride in weather like this.”  So if you’re motivated by the glory of riding in adverse conditions, then winter cycling will provide pride with every ride. 
   Winter weather hurts bicycles more, too--I believe they were designed for use in more pleasant conditions. Low temperatures, sand, salt, snow, and ice all compromise the effectiveness of drivetrain components, brakes, and tires.  Remedies to these shortcomings are available, so let us explore them individually. 

The Drivetrain
   The drivetrain of the bicycle consists of the cable and housing system, front and rear derailleur, chain, rear sprockets (freewheel or cassette), front chainwheel (crank, shifters, bottom bracket (BB), and hubs.  All of these components need lubrication to work optimally, which in turn require the optimum lubricant for any given riding condition.  
   One solution to mechanical problems that arise in winter is the use of lubricants that are more light and watery, especially on the cables and housing, chain, derailleur pivots, and freewheeling mechanisms.; I have had very good results with a graphite-based lubricant called “Bike Aid”, and I’m sure there are numerous other brands that work just as well.   The result is easier shifting, smooth propulsion, and a general, happy feeling.  
   The shortcoming of many of these lubricants is their ability to be washed off when slush and water is floppin’ about the bike, so frequent application is recommended for the most exposed components—namely the chain, sprockets, chainwheel, and derailleurs.
   Bearing sets like the hubs and BB are normally packed with grease, which will become more resistant to motion in low temperatures, but not enough to justify overhauling and replacing the grease with a less viscous lubricant. So let us focus our attention to the cable and housing system, the chain and derailleurs, and the freewheeling mechanism.  

Cable and Housing System
   Without a doubt, shift cables and housing are the leading cause of shifting problems among index shift systems, winter OR summer.  The shift housing has a plastic liner that interfaces with the cable; this interface requires proper lubrication. Oftentimes, the cable is lubricated with grease or oil (which is better than nothing in summer temperatures), or not lubricated at all (never good).  In winter, cold temperatures make the oil or grease more viscous, causing the cable to not travel through the housing smoothly, which results in difficult operation of the shift lever, and/or poor index shifting response.  In addition, the plastic liner inside the housing also wears out with time, requiring frequent replacement.  
   I replace my whole rear cable and housing set at least three times a year to maintain peak performance, using a graphite-based lube year-round.  I have witnessed the complete turnaround of a shift system with the simple application of a lighter lube.   For winter preparation, first try dripping the lubricant inside the cable housing--turn the bike at different angles to requisition gravity to draw the liquid through the housing. Another method to accomplish the same goal is to release the cable housing from the cable stops to gain access to the portion of the cable inside the housing, and apply the lube. If this fails to produce improved cable movement (less force required to operate the shifter), consider having the cable and housing set replaced, or at least checked out by your trustworthy mechanic. 
   Sometimes shifters can be in need of a lighter lube in winter, but it is not as common as problems that arise with cables and housing.  There are various types of shifters, all with different methods of lubrication—either douse the whole thing in lube or, preferably, ask your mechanic how to do it.

Drive System
   The chain, derailleurs, chainwheel and rear sprockets are the drivetrain components most exposed to water, salt, and sand.  Long service life and optimum workability of all these components can be realized through frequent cleaning, along with rabid application of fresh, juicy lubricant.  The cleaning part can be omitted if you have better things to do; the price is shortened life of the components.  Conversely, the fresh juicy lubricant may not be omitted.  I use Bike Aid on my chain, but as you know there are plenty of other suitable liquids—just make sure the consistency is light and water-like.  I would not recommend oil-like lubes, because they become sticky and gooey in the cold, nor would I recommend any of the wax-based lubes like White Lightning—the wax just gets cold and falls off of the chain.  
  In winter, I succumb to the fact that I am going to wear out and throw away my chain, cog, and chainring at the end of each year, so I just douse the chain every week and ignore the state of cleanliness.  I must warn that I am a piggy person in general, so this may not be the course of action most suited to you.  If you have some time and lots of old socks, then by all means wipe down the drivetrain as much as is practical.  Chain cleaning gadgets are also available in all shapes and sizes—I have had excellent results with my Park chain cleaner.

Freewheeling Mechanism
   The last drivetrain component that requires attention is the freewheeling mechanism—the system that allows you to power the bike forward when pedaling, and coast when you are not. On some bikes, this mechanism is built into the rear hub and is called the freehub body, on others it is built into the rear gear cluster and is called the freewheel--ask a seasoned mechanic to determine which system your bike has.  
   In winter, very low temperatures cause both mechanisms to sometimes not respond to pedaling—you spin the chainwheel, but it fails to drive the rear wheel.  The problem is, once again, lubrication.   Both systems use thick, viscous grease or oil, which becomes sticky in cold temperatures, causing engagement difficulties.  The solution is to install a lighter lubricant, which can be done easily on freewheels, but is more difficult on freehub bodies.  For freewheel setups, simply remove the freewheel from the rear wheel (ask the bike shop which tool is needed), run a light lubricant into the mechanism, and the problem  is solved.  Unfortunately, freehub bodies require the complete disassembly of the hub, which is best performed by your steely-eyed, professional bike mechanic. 

Final Note
   A final note concerning drivetrains:  Consider using a fixed-gear or single speed bike in the winter.  These machines eliminate many of the components that cause problems in low temperatures—the shifters, derailleurs, and cable and housing system.  I use a winter-specific fixed gear for commuting, and have had a fantastic experience with it--I just douse the chain with lube every few days, and don’t have to think about all of the problems discussed in the above paragraphs. A fixed-gear version also provides an additional brake because you can use your legs to slow down.  I highly recommended it!

Braking system
   Now that your bike will go forward while you lose feeling in your feet, lets make sure you can stop when you find your eyes suddenly frozen shut.  Braking is oftentimes compromised in winter because lots of brake systems are not set up to work optimally, and because sand, salt, ice and snow all lessen the effectiveness of brake pads.
   First, take your bike to a professional to get an opinion regarding your brake setup--they might be able to suggest ways to achieve better mechanical advantage.  Almost all the bikes that come into our shop could use some sort of adjustment to help the braking system work better, so have it checked.  Most shops will do this task for no charge, so by all means, take advantage of the service!
   Secondly check the condition of your pads often to make sure they are still worthwhile.  Many pads have a recommended wear line-- if not, just use your judgment or the brain of a bike mechanic.  If you determine that the pads are worn, replace them with hard compound pads for winter use—they will survive the sand better and will simultaneously work better by plowing away ice and snow that build up in winter riding conditions.  Shimano brake pads are renowned for their hard compound, and I have experienced great durability and stopping power with them in the hell of January.

Tires
   None of the issues discussed so far are of any use if you find yourself floppin’ ass-over-teakettle every few blocks because of a lack of traction.  I am a firm believer in using studded tires on snow and ice, especially having used them the last four years. Previously, I spent a lot of time feeling timid in so many winter riding situations, but that feeling has been mostly eliminated.  Now I can stand up on hills without my tire slipping, and corner on glare ice.  A Finnish company called Nokian  produces carbide-studded bike tires that are quite expensive ($60-$130 each), but work and wear extremely well.   Of course one can still ride without fancy tires in winter, but they do make it easier and safer.
   In conclusion, I highly recommend taking some simple steps to help your bike work better in the winter.  A few of these actions can be easily done without outside help— like procuring lighter lubricant to use on various drivetrain parts, and cleaning the drivetrain to enhance component life.  Many other benefits can be reaped with a trip to see your personal mechanic—they most likely will be excited to help someone with winter riding.  Take your bike in to talk about freewheeling mechanisms, brake setup, cables and housing, studded tires, and fixed gear bicycles.  Again, most shops give free estimates, so take advantage and get a second or third opinion about the health of your winter bicycle. Finally--stay calm, and slowly breathe the pain of cold away—soon you will be pouring out July sweat….